Things To Do
BEST EMPANADAS: La conquista empanadas
This place is right near the beach, across from the Hot Corner Bar (which has great live music at night), and looks like nothing, and we walked by it several times without even knowing what it was. Each empanada is $1 - $1.50 and the sides (relish, salsa) are incredible too. The horchata and other drinks were too sugary for us but the food was delicious. Lunch only.
BEST CEVICHE: Ceviches La Chingada
We came here for lunch every day after we found it, and would start with their ceviche and sometimes add a guacamole before eating (fried but amazing) fish tacos. Washing it all down with a liter of fresh juice (usually passionfruit for us), where we recommend asking them not to add additional sugar. The ceviche is from a white fish, has a very nice kick to it (hence why you need the juice!), and comes with beautiful, homemade tortilla chips. Plus the walls are covered in raunchy idioms using the term/slang La chingada (which means, of the damned or effed, etc.), creating a super homey but playful vibe. They do dinners, but we never made it for those. I'd be interested to know what they serve but then again, I am salivating just thinking about their lunch service so...Also, our move was to take a juice to go and buy a bottle of tequila and some limes (option) to make our own margaritas on the beach.
BEST FISH TACO: Ceviches La Chingada
Another shout for Ceviche La Chingada. The fish tacos here are fried, but they still feel incredibly fresh.
BEST MEAT TACO: Taco Queto
Taco Queto, hands down. The tacos are incredible and cheap, and come one per order so I'd start with at least 3-4 because they're small. The Burros are always really good, which is somewhere in between a burrito and an enchilada with a nice crema on top. I could live off of La Chingada and Queto for lunch and dinner respectively, for the rest of my life. Note: this joint doesn't open until 5pm or thereabouts and they don't serve booze. BYO.
BEST COCKTAIL: Luuma
If you want fancy Tulum vibes, then Luuma, though it gets busy in the evening with travelers looking to flex. Luuma also has one of, if not thee nicest boutique on the island. The Notorious Cocktail is a middle of the way spot, with plenty of seating, house music during the day (and great live bands in the eve) and a more economical drink menu. For cocktails beachside, there's a place (Mantarray?) about 10-15 minutes east of the town that boasts an outdoor kitchen and tented seating area. They have enormous soup bowl sized cocktails that are very tasty. Our fav while in mexico is the passion fruit margarita - maracuya (pictured here)!
Best BREAKFAST/BRUNCH Painapol
If we weren't eating brekkie at home or looking for a nice healthy lunch, this was the spot. Run by an awesome italian guy and his mother. He owns a produce shop so there's tons of fresh juices and smoothies and salads. Adorable spot with good vibes. You can wait on the bench in front of the mural while you wait for a table and get a coffee, just check in with the waitress first.
BEST FANCY PANTS DINNER: Ser CasaSandra Holbox Mexico
Make a reservation by stopping into the hotel restaurant and reserving your table and an outdoor palapa for an additional 500MXD (80 USD). We did a tasting menu their for $125~ pp and it was worth it. The service is great. The chef is exceptional (best fine dining experience we had on the island), and the vibes are to die for. Paige likened it to British Raj vibes, and Ari agreed before feeling his own white privilege. Apparently the chef's buddy or someone related to him also runs the spot Parador 33. We went and weren't super impressed with the vibe or the prices relative to the food. Las Tortugas is another really nice hotel, which apparently has an awesome restaurant, and we heard good things about the food at Hotel Mawimbi as well.
OTHER SPOTS: El Chapulim
Paige liked this place better than Ari did. Definitely worth a visit if you have several nights on the island -- good quality and right in the middle of town. We never made it to Big Fish, but our friend there said it's a good, no frills, hip spot for tacos and drinks. Around the main square, there's are food carts every night offering super cheap eats. Churros!
BEST SPA DAY: Casa Las Tortugas
Get the "ritual" at Casa Las Tortugas (the hotel), for a nice steam, massage, and bath. Paige did this on her birthday and she came out all sparkly and happy. There are massage places every 30 yards on the beach, and we've heard all good things.
Day Trips
The truth is we didn't do any day trips when we were in Holbox. But there are boat tours, swimming in fresh water pools (cenotes), and trips to the ruins if you wish! And there will be many, many lovely people who want to take you there.