La Boca, home of beloved local football team Boca Juniors -Just remember Marina and Eric´s team is Racing... never Boca!!-, is a neighborhood bursting with life and color, particularly on its most famous road, El Caminito. Peek into the myriad shops selling blue and yellow Boca Juniors apparel as well as sky-blue and white Argentina national team jerseys –generally emblazoned with the names and numbers of legends like Maradona and Messi – and admire the brightly hued houses nearby (don’t veer off the main roads here, though; the area is rough around the edges). Go for a feast try Lo de Carlitos, across the street from Boca Stadium. Don{t let the appearance fool you, it might look plain and like any other eatery but here is where the best chefs in the world come to eat (e.g. Antony Burdain, Francis Malmam and Mauro Colagreco). Tell Gabriela to give you a side of Chocotorta (Best in town). Please don´t visit this neighborhood if Boca is Playing that day. It is just not safe!
MALBA, or the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires, is Argentina’s premier contemporary art museum, featuring pieces by iconic Latino artists including Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera as well as lesser-known local talents. Set aside a couple of hours to explore this sprawling art wonderland, and come away with an improved knowledge of the Latin-American art scene of the past century.
Swing by the legendary Café La Biela for a café con leche just like Argentinian literary heroes Borges and Casares used to – note the life-size statues of the two authors sitting at their preferred table. With impeccable service and old-school style, this legendary cafe remains a Buenos Aires institution.
Buenos Aires’ downtown area is home to La Casa Rosada, the official presidential residence, which is a wonder in pink opulence. After taking in the view of the building, and its splendidly-dressed guards, take a walk around Plaza de Mayo, where demonstrations and protests frequently occur.
Originally a grand theatre, then a grand cinema, it’s now a grand bookstore. In fact, the 99-year-old Grand Splendid is one of the grandest stores in the world. Why go? Reveling in its own history, the frescoed ceiling, elaborate theatre boxes and even the bold red drapes are all intact, casting an eye-wateringly opulent backdrop for the books. Take the time to sip a coffee and listen to some live piano on the original stage, with sweeping views of the Grand Splendid in all its… splendor.
Is it creepy to fly to a city just to visit the graveyard? Not if the city in question is Baires. Located in posh Recoleta neighborhood—where moneyed porteños live—this cemetery features thousands of statues, mausoleums that resemble Gothic chapels, crypts, fairytale grottoes, sarcophagi, coffins, and elegant little houses that hold the remains of some of Argentina’s most iconic and celebrated figures.
A world-class theater for opera, ballet, and symphony, the Teatro Colón will take your breath away. If you're lucky enough to score tickets to a performance, the acoustics are spectacular no matter where your seats are. If you can't make it in for a performance, stop by for a guided tour. (English-language tours happen seven days a week at 11 a.m., 1 p.m., and 3 p.m.)
One of the best antique markets in the world with 250 booths and stands pops up Sundays in San Telmo's Plaza Dorrego. You never know what you might find at the Feria, anything from matchbox cars to mid-century modern furniture, a limited edition record or even a first edition book. If you know what you're looking at (and your seller doesn't), you might even score a vintage Louis Vuitton bag or Bertoia chair for a song.... Nahhhh People from Conde Nast said that... but Nahhh I would have bought it long time ago! But food stands are good, specially to go trying a little appetizer in each stand accompany by Malbec, Fernet or a vermu! We love to watch those creepy old dolls and go trough dusty vinyl records. Don´t forget to get a jar of Pineapple infused olives!
Buenos Aires's Central Park has it all: small lakes with boats for rent, pretty gazebos, a rose garden, a sculpture garden dedicated to iconic poets, picnic spots, running paths, stands that rent rollerblades and bikes. At almost 1,000 acres, this park is best explored from a specific starting point. Take a taxi and ask the driver to take you to the Rose Garden and then make your way to the lakes.
This knockout, family-run parrilla run by a butcher is now a Palermo classic, thanks to its perfectly seared prime cuts sourced from grass-fed cattle, impeccable service, and a top-notch wine list. Book a table in the main salon or upstairs for a bird’s eye view of the asadores manning the grills; service is highly efficient as restaurateur Pablo Rivero sends his staff to wine school. The cuts to order are the entraña (skirt steak) as well as the tira de asado (short ribs), both served with fries and a simple tomato salad. Signed bottles line the walls—leave your own mark after finishing your Malbec. We love Pablo! Mention to him our Friend Leticia "Coco" Mandra ( now a UK resident that misses this place like nobody else in the world) for a special friend's treatment.
The largest barrio, or neighborhood, in Buenos Aires, Palermo is a destination for foodies, art fans, shopaholics and revelers alike. Popular with expats, the area has increasingly become populated with locals as well, and today is a veritable melting pot of culture and coolness. It’s no secret that Palermo is a shopper’s paradise. On weekends, the markets at Plaza Serrano and Plaza Armenia are bustling with indie vendors hawking artisanal wares. Don’t miss the clothing and home boutiques along Gurruchaga, Honduras, and Malabia to find cutting edge designs by a mix of Argentine and foreign designers. Coffee and people watching? Palermo is rife with cafés and coffee shops. Take a seat at Oui Oui in Palermo Hollywood for a tasty brunch. Craving something sweet? Go for the submarino, Argentina’s take on a hot chocolate: hot milk served with a chunk of chocolate to be ‘sunk’ into it and stirred. Oui Oui, Nicaragua 6068, Buenos Aires, Argentina, +54 11 4778-9614
There are some restaurants that are different than others. In this particular case, the setting and the view paired with really amazing food makes the experience unique for the Buenos Aires gastronomic offering. Perched on top of a 1930’s office building, they offer three different levels: the 19th floor with the bar and also tables for dinner, then the more intimate 20th floor just for restaurant and then the terrace on the 21st floor that has a bar and snakcs I suppose, with the most incredible view of the city (think Puerto Madero, the Obelisco, etc etc etc). We were there twice, and both visits we were blown away by the food. Creamy risotto, meat, fish, octopus...(The chef, the famous Dante Liporace). Just let me know if you want to get in... we'll pull some strings...
Dada is my Cheers, where everybody know your name and my favorite bar in BA. BUT ALSO.... For a restaurant named after a 1920s anti-art movement, Dadá turns out to be remarkably unpretentious. There’s a lot to love about this little place on Calle San Martín in Retiro: the decoration, the friendliness of the staff and, of course, the food. Everything inside Dadá is beautiful to look at, from the paintings hanging on the walls, to the brightly tiled bar. There’s definitely a Parisian flair to the place. A huge mural inspired by Roy Lichtenstein hovered above our table, where we had sat down for lunch. Looking at the menu, I was mainly surprised by how affordable everything was. Get in any week night. Ask for Marcelo or Paulo ant tell them that you are a Friend of Marinita, one of the "Three musketeers"