Guide to Buffalo

Travel Note

Lodging

Check out Airbnbs in Elmwood Village, Delaware Park, Allentown. Hotels with approximate nightly costs: Wyndham Garden Buffalo Downtown $153 Hampton Inn Downtown $185 Hilton Garden Inn Downtown $190 Aloft Downtown $192 Courtyard Marriott Buffalo Downtown $267 Embassy Suites Downtown $285 Unique, Historic Lodgings in the City: The Edward Hotel $135 Parkside House Bed and Breakfast $215 InnBuffalo Elmwood $235 Buffalo Harmony House $263 Curtis Hotel $281 The Richardson Hotel $298 Outside the city: Lakecrest Estate Bed & Breakfast (on the lake) $200 lake view includes breakfast! Roycroft Inn (in the cute town of East Aurora - approx 25 mins from the venue) $230 Chestnut Hill Guesthouse and Farm - cottages for $320

Travel Note

Short History of Buffalo

Buffalo is New York’s second-largest city. It was once one of the largest and most important cities in America, rising to prominence due to the construction of the Erie Canal. The canal connected the Hudson River to the Great Lakes (and was, at the time it opened, the only easy way to get west of the Appalachians) and thus placed Buffalo at a key commercial transfer point. Because of this history as a crossroads, its location on an international border, and its status for centuries as a destination for migrants, Buffalo boasts a unique blend of Northeastern, Midwestern, and Canadian culture. Buffalo’s luck worsened in the twentieth century as the canal became obsolete, the United States deindustrialized, and the Buffalo Bills lost four Super Bowls in a row. Bad city planning and racism exacerbated these issues, and by the year 2010, Buffalo was a poor and segregated city whose population had decreased from its peak of 580,000 in 1950 to just over 260,000. Recently, though, there have been signs that Buffalo’s fortunes might be reversing again: The city’s population increased to nearly 280,000 in the 2020 census, likely driven largely by immigrants and refugees. The Bills are good again. Experts say Buffalo is uniquely well positioned to deal with climate change.

Travel Note

Niagara Falls

The American side is 22 minutes from downtown Buffalo. The Canadian side is 32 minutes, not counting the time it takes to go through customs. If you’re going to the American side, put Niagara Falls State Park into your GPS. The view of the Falls is better on the Canadian side. It has been a long time since I’ve been on the Canadian side; I recall the general area as a tacky tourist trap (the American side is also guilty of this, to be fair), but the view really is better on the Canadian side—unless you take the Maid of the Mist from the American side, which is the best view of all. The Maid of the Mist is a boat on the American side that will take you very close to the Falls. You will get soaked (they’ll give you a poncho). I did it for the first time a few years ago, and it was incredible! It costs about $25. Another advantage of the American side is Whirlpool State Park (a very short drive from the Falls); if you have time, park your car there and walk along the trail to the right (northward) until you come to a set of stairs. Hike down the stairs to get to the bottom of the Niagara Gorge. Then you can hike along the bottom of the Gorge for great views of the rapids. It’s very pretty. The climb back up the stairs is a decent workout but should be fine for most hikers.

Travel Note

For the outdoorsy…

Canalside (the reclaimed waterfront park), you can rent kayaks and row up the Buffalo river, passing by the city’s massive grain silos. Ride the carousel. Look at the famous Shark Girl sculpture. Outer Harbor: Bike/walking paths (you can rent a bike) along the waterfront, plus Gallagher Beach, Tifft Nature Preserve, and other outdoor activities. Eat at Charlie’s Boat Yard. This is more reclaimed waterfront land—another positive development of the past decade-plus. The beaches of Lake Erie: Try Crystal Beach (aka Bay Beach) in Canada (22 minutes from downtown Buffalo, not including waiting at customs), Bennett Beach in Angola USA (29 minutes), or Sunset Beach in Irving USA (37 minutes). Chestnut Ridge: A large county park in Orchard Park from which you get a great view of the city on a clear day. Lots of hiking paths, including to the “Eternal Flame” (it sounds cooler than it is).

Travel Note

Allentown Neighborhood

Arts and nightlife district. Lots of bars and small music venues. Eat wings at Gabriel’s Gate. Fat Bob’s has good barbecue and mac and cheese. If you want a nice sit-down meal, try Mothers. Live music every night at Nietzsche’s.

Travel Note

Elmwood Village

Where Margaret’s brother Neil lives! Shopping and nightlife district. Lots of bars and coffee shops. Near two of the city’s jewels—Delaware Park and the Albright-Knox art gallery. There’s a farmers’ market on Saturdays at Elmwood and Bidwell. Also lots of green space along Bidwell, which is part of Buffalo’s collection of Frederick Law Olmsted-designed parks and parkways. Grab a coffee at Caffe Aroma or Spot Coffee. Eat wings at Cole’s. Play pool at McGarret’s. There’s a myriad of cool restaurants. For a nice and scenic sit-down meal: The Terrace at Delaware Park (if the weather is nice).

Travel Note

Hertel Ave

Grab-bag district with lots of bars (noticing a pattern?), restaurants, and shops—and some small art galleries, too. Kostas, a Greek diner, is a Buffalo staple. Lloyd Taco Factory is good. Taj Grill (nearby) has good Indian food. Grab coffee at Spot or ice cream at Lake Effect Ice Cream. See a movie at the charming North Park Theatre. I have heard good things about Steve’s Clam Bar, if you like clams. Delaware Park is pretty close, as is (for architecture buffs) Frank Lloyd Wright’s Martin House in the beautiful Parkside neighborhood.

Travel Note

Downtown

Lots of hotels. Centrally located. But relatively few people live downtown, so it can be quite dead on the weekends if nothing is going on. Go up to the top of City Hall on a clear day and check out the observation deck. Visit Canalside, the reclaimed waterfront park at the historic western terminus of the Erie Canal. See the Buffalo Bisons play baseball at Sahlen Field. If you want to get rip roaring drunk with a bunch of bros, there’s Chippewa Street. Restaurants/bars (among many others): o Chef’s (Italian, longtime Buffalo staple) (slightly outside downtown but nearby) o Tappo (Italian w/ rooftop seating) o RiverWorks (decent bar fare) (only go here if it’s a nice day so you can sit outside and enjoy the scene) o Pearl Street Grill & Brewery (large hangout with decent bar fare) o Misuta Chow’s (Japanese street food + video arcade)

Travel Note

South Buffalo

Where Margaret’s sister, Aileen lives! The Irish Catholic enclave where Margaret’s parents grew up. A mostly residential district full of dive bars and pizzerias. Quieter than the previous three neighborhoods. Go to Cazenovia Park. Take a walk down McKinley Parkway (also part of the Olmsted system). In my opinion, Doc Sullivan’s has the best wings in the city. Other good restaurants: The Blackthorn Irish Pub - Margaret’s Aunt and Uncle are former owners and Margaret’s Uncle Danny can be found bartending Dog & Pony Saloon Pizza: Imperial (to sit down), Mineos (to go) Ice cream: Cookies & Cream. Coffee/breakfast: Public Espresso + Coffee

Travel Note

For a nicer meal and a hipper crowd…

Try Roost on Niagara Street (gourmet pizzas/American fare) Trattoria Aroma on Bryant (Italian). Betty’s on Virginia - Brunch

Travel Note

For quick and cheap eats…

Niagara Café (Puerto Rican) 99 Fast Food (Vietnamese) Lake Effect Diner (breakfast) BreadHive Bakery & Cafe (sandwiches named after famous divas) Mississippi Mudds (old-timey waterfront hot dog/burger joint on the Niagara River in Tonawanda) West Side Bazaar (modest food hall with authentic Ethiopian, South Sudanese, Thai, Chinese, Burmese, Congolese more).

Travel Note

Village of East Aurora

The ultimate Buffalo greasy bar food experience may well be at the Bar Bill Tavern in East Aurora. The wings are among Buffalo’s best, and the beef on weck sandwich (another Buffalo staple) is unsurpassed. Worth the drive. East Aurora is a quaint little village with restaurants, shops, and a movie theater along a walkable Main Street.

Travel Note

Other spots…

Emerald’s Favorite: The Pierce Arrow Museum: “The Buffalo Transportation Pierce-Arrow Museum is here to remind the world that Buffalo, NY was once an influential city of industry and producer of outstanding vehicles. The Museum’s mission is to preserve and showcase this legacy.” Forest Lawn cemetery: Connected to Delaware Park, this grand old cemetery is a popular walking destination and is the resting place of Millard Fillmore and RICK JAMES!, among many other notable Buffalo historical figures. OLV Basilica: Whether you’re religious or not, this opulent Catholic shrine in Lackawanna is worth seeing. Cobblestone District: This section of downtown Buffalo has a comedy club (Helium), a good music venue (Buffalo Iron Works), and the Labbatt Brew House. More local music venues (i.e., smaller venues, some of which will double as regular hangouts): Mister Goodbar, Nietzsche’s, Sportsmen’s Tavern.